The Beauty Problems Only Asian Girls Understand
Fun fact: Asians make up nearly 60% of the entire world's population, yet given the lack of diversity on runways and in Hollywood, this number might come as a shock. Though the beauty blogosphere is overflowing with hair and makeup how-to's, a vast majority of them tend to cater to the same definition of western beauty, which don't exactly suit my Asian facial features, monolids, or stick-straight hair. (Here's one from the ladies behind Pixiwoo who get it.)
So, over my past few years in the beauty industry, I've been on a mission to learn techniques that work for my skin type, facial features, complexion, and hair texture. After testing out a seemingly infinite amount of products and experimenting with tips and tricks straight from the top pros in the beauty biz, I've learned what works—and what doesn't—when it comes to catering to my unique Asian features. Lucky for you, I'm really into sharing!
Read on to learn more common beauty problems only Asian girls understand. And just to clear the air, nobody is saying these issues necessarily need to be "solved." What you choose to do with your beauty look is entirely up to you. But, if you're searching for new ways to experiment with your hair and makeup, I want to give you all the know-how to make it work.
Photo: Imaxtree1/7From hair that won't hold a curl to stick-straight lashes.
Photos: Courtesy of Sephora2/7Contouring looks nothing like a Kardashian’s.
Contouring requires an understanding of your skin tone, face structure, and the way light hits your features. "Asian women tend to have yellow undertones that don’t complement most contouring kits, which usually contain colors that are too dark or orange-y for us," says my fellow Asian girl and celebrity makeup artist, Mai Quynh. "For the most natural-looking effect, use a foundation that’s a shade or two darker than what you use on a daily basis instead," she says. On top of picking the right formula, Asians (especially with rounder face shapes) also want to be mindful about where they place their contour. "Stay as close to the bottom of the cheekbone as possible and be mindful about making your face appear rounder by steering clear of the apples of your cheeks." Contour your jawline, temples and the sides of your nose for a slimming effect that will elongate your face. This easy tutorial from YouTube blogger Emily Quak shows how the results are subtle, but stunning.
Products Pictured:
Surratt Beauty Artistique Blush in Grisaille
Photos: Courtesy of Tarte, Maybelline New York, Benefit, Sephora Collection, Laura Mercier3/7Eyeliner disappears into our lids.
Eyeliner can be particularly tricky for ladies with monolids—and chances are that you have dozens of discarded pencils, liquid liners, and gel pots to prove it. Fine, precise lines simply get lost in the small fold of our upper lids and going super thick just looks like one big mistake. The trick is to apply your eyeliner with your eyes open to make sure you’re creating the right amount of thickness. "Cat eyes look great on monolids because you can really see the full effect of the shape," says Quynh. Liquid and gel liners provide a longer-lasting finish, and are gentler on your lids (a bonus since you might need to go over the area a few times). "You’ll want the thicker consistency and heavier pigment of a gel liner since you’re going over a larger surface area of your lid," says Quynh. Don’t forget to give definition to your lower lashline with a sliver of pencil liner as well to really open up the shape of your eye.
Products Pictured:
Tarte Skinny SmolderEYES Amazonian Clay Waterproof Liner
Maybelline Eye Studio Master Graphic Liquid Marker Eyeliner in Striking Black
Benefit Cosmetics They’re Real! Push-Up Liner
Photos: Courtesy of Nordstrom, Blinc Cosmetics, Inglot, Sephora4/7Your short lashes stick out straight.
I can’t remember how many times I’ve tried to curl my lashes, only to find that they weren’t even long enough to fit into the holder. A mini curler (typically meant for the lower lashes), works wonders on short, stubby hairs and hard-to-reach areas like the inner corners. Try using one before applying a volumizing, waterproof mascara for a full flutter. When you want to give them an extra boost, skip the strip lashes and opt for individuals for a more natural look.
Products Pictured:
Vincent Longo Mini Eyelash Curler
Photos: Courtesy of L'Oreal Paris, Drugstore.com, Sephora, Wella5/7Your hair won’t hold a curl.
My curly-haired BFF wishes she could save the extra 30 minutes of morning prep battling with her flat iron, while I’m completely obsessed with her naturally lush waves. The grass is always greener on the other side, right? If you’ve ever spent hours trying to transform your straight, stubborn strands into Veronica Lake waves only to have them fall flat minutes later, I feel your frustration. Ideally, a curl holds best with dirty, second-day hair. Divide dry hair into three equal parts—the left, middle, and right—and clip two of them in place while you work on the third. Next, spray your first section with a heat-activated hairspray. Wait one minute for it to absorb, then use a 1" iron to curl. "Consider clamping hair around the iron from the middle of the section to the ends, as opposed to curling all the way up to the root," says TRESemmé hairstylist Jeanie Syfu. "This will create more bounce instead of a super long, heavy curl that weighs down your hair." After releasing the curl, roll it back up with your fingers and clip it in place while it cools. Then give each individual curl a generous spritz of humidity-proof hairspray to secure the look. Once you’ve completed curling all of your hair, let the clips out and blast with another dose of hairspray.
Products Pictured:
L’Oreal Paris Elnett Satin Hairspray Extra Strong Hold with UV Filter
Photos: Courtesy of Nordstrom, Beauty.com, Bobbi Brown, Sephora6/7Your brows are sparse.
Thanks to the bold brow trend that’s gained momentum over the past couple of years (we’re looking at you, Cara Delevingne), I’ve become painfully more aware of my barely-there brows. But thanks to genius new brow pencils and powders, it’s never been easier to copy the look. Black is too harsh against most of our skin tones—even if you’ve got jet-black hair—so use a medium or dark brown color to enhance your shape with featherlike strokes. "You can even mix and match existing products in your makeup bag to create the look that you want," says Quynh. "A dark, matte eyeshadow can work great on the inner parts of the brow, while an eyeliner pencil works well on the ends because it offers more coverage," she says. Whichever formula you choose, start at the hairs closest to the bridge of your nose (which should be in line with the inner corner of your eyes) and stroke outward to mimic the direction of your actual hairs.
Products Pictured:
Charlotte Tilbury ’Brow Lift’ Three-Way Shape, Lift & Shade Eyebrow Pencil
Photos: Courtesy of Shiseido, La Roche-Posay, Clarins, Neutrogena, Drunk Elephant7/7Your skin’s prone to hyperpigmentation.
The days of overly sticky, shiny sunscreen formulas are long gone, and that’s great news for Asians who are prone to sunspots and freckles. "Asian skin typically produces more melanin upon sun exposure, which usually results in an uneven texture," says aesthetician Ling Chan. Even when it’s raining, UVA rays are so strong that dark clouds won’t do much to block their damaging effects. Always remember to religiously apply sunscreen every day—no matter your skin color. "If you spent a day in the sun and forgot your sunblock [oops!], slather yourself in aloe to help nourish, hydrate, and calm skin to reduce sensitivity. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant that repairs sun damage and reduces pigmentation and dark spots." Yet another great reason to get your daily dose of vitamins in.
Products Pictured:
Shiseido Wetforce Ultimate Sun Protection Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ For Face/Body
La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid
Clarins Sunscreen Multi-Protection Broad Spectrum SPF 50
