Runway Recap
1/10Thakoon Panichgul's dresses have been turning heads on the party scene for some time now. But rather than rest on his laurels, the designer did a 180 for spring, showing he has just as deft a hand with sportswear. Among the standouts: mannish blazers, navy tie–dye tops and skirts, shirtdresses splashed with jagged stripes, and a belted anorak in a digitalized floral print. Those creatures of the night weren't forgotten about altogether, though. In fact, one fan couldn't even wait for Panichgul's jewel–tone silk halter dresses to make it off the runway. Kate Bosworth showed up wearing a fuchsia one–shoulder one front–row.
2/10When the show notes placed on editors' seats read from look 56 down, some people wondered if it might be a typo. Those theories were quickly dispelled when Marc Jacobs ran onto the stage to take his bow before a single model had even stepped foot on the runway. Next came the finale, followed by a reverse lineup that started with the evening dresses and finished with candy–colored track pants. And the surrealism didn't stop there. On the runway, tops, skirts, and pants were printed with bra and underwear silhouettes, dresses came with sheer organza strips across the middle creating the illusion of a bare belly, and shoes seemed to teeter in thin air with heels jutting out from the bottom. Britney Spears may be the most unlikely of muses, but in Jacobs's hands, she proved a wildly spectacular one.
3/10For his first runway show, Alexander Wang enlisted pal and muse, model Erin Wasson, to style. It turns out her tough chic eye was just the ticket for Wang's cool girl clothes. His slouchy faded jeans, boyfriend blazers, and fierce minidresses all looked effortlessly—but perfectly—thrown together. Never one to be a traditionalist, Wang closed his show with a sweatshirt and torn–up jean shorts instead of the usual gown finale. Of course, this was no ordinary sweatshirt. It was awash in metallic sequins. How's that for a study in contrasts?
4/10Tennis anyone? In honor of Lacoste's 75th anniversary (coming up in 2008), designer Christophe Lemaire served up the French company's preppy sporty heritage with a colorful seventies twist, splashing stripes and polka dots across classics like pleated skirts and polo dresses. Topped off with beribboned espadrilles, visors, and straw hats, it made for a winning combination—on court or off.
5/10From his CFDA win to the opening of a SoHo flagship, it's been quite a year for Phillip Lim—and he lived up to the hype with his standout spring collection. You can always count on Lim for cool classics like trenches and t–shirt dresses. This season he livened them up with glossy finishes, leopard prints, and coral lace overlays. Lim's built a faithful Young Hollywood following, and he gave them plenty to get excited about with his Grecian–draped party dresses in fresh, sunny shades. As the winking smiley faces on his gotta–have–it t–shirts showed, there's a lot to be happy about chez Phillip Lim.
6/10With Central Park as a backdrop, Ralph Lauren marked his 40th anniversary in true New York style. The American icon delivered all his greatest hits from dandy and equestrian to smoldering black tie. The garden party dresses were particularly apropos for the leafy setting, and indeed could have walked right off the runway to the candlelit dinner that followed. It was a grand affair, but in typical Ralph fashion he made it look like a walk in the park.
7/10Jose Ramon Reyes gave American sportswear a twenties twist for spring. But you can forget about the obvious flapper cliches. Instead, Reyes toyed with drop–waist dresses and boyfriend cardigans trimmed with red and navy stripes. Think Gwyneth Paltrow (who happens to be a muse and fan) meets Daisy Buchanan.
8/10Boarding call! Leave it to Marc Jacobs to make flight attendant uniforms cool again. The jet setting designer suited his models up in navy and mustard brass–buttoned looks that would have been right at home in the friendly skies circa the 1970s. One of the girls even rolled a wheelie down the runway behind her. Other standouts included must–have toppers cut half too short on one side. Of course, those really willing to go out on a limb should take note of the hair: It was teased into a rat's nest complete with fuchsia streaks.
9/10Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave the mini legs at Proenza Schouler. Topped with belted vests and metal–rimmed shades from their new eyewear line, the duo's majorly abbreviated skirts packed plenty of attitude. The momentum continued for evening with gold–dipped dresses that should keep their fans marching straight to the stores.
10/10Liberty florals, baby blue jeans, oversized polka dots, and striped silk pajamas—Karen Walker's spring show was a madcap mix that had just the right balance of kooky and sweet.
