2017 Woolmark Prize Winners Zaid Affas and Christopher Bevans Talk Breaking Into the Fashion Industry
Though we're eternally enthralled by big fashion houses and the lavish shows and celebrations they put on all-around the globe, there's absolutely no denying that small brands keep the industry exciting and brimming with new ideas. And though platforms like Instagram and Big Cartel have given a lot of labels the foundation they need to promote and sell their work pretty easily, designers still need money to produce their pieces, hire a staff, and market their work.
Thus, many have sought out design challenges and prizes that will afford them all of the aforementioned should they win the big cash prizes and exposure—and industry insider access even if they do not. The Woolmark Company is one such brand seeking to fund lesser-known designers with its global Woolmark Prize—the U.S. regional winners of which were just crowned last month. Taking home the AU$70,000 (about $56,000) prize for womenswear and menswear were Jenner and Hadid sister-loved brand Zaid Affas and label DYNE, respectively. Each designer now has about six months to work on their six-piece Merino wool-based capsule collection for the International Woolmark Prize finals. There, they'll compete with regional winners from around the globe for AU$200,000 (about $159,000). This year, a third prize has also been added for innovation, to whomever developed the most creative and unique fabric.
We talked to both Affas and Christopher Bevans about how they're feeling post-win, how the rapidly-evolving digital space is affecting small designers, diversity, dressing the world's "it" girls, and more.
Hannah Sider1/6Teen Vogue: Congratulations Zaid! How are you feeling right now? We're certain you're at least very excited.
Zaid Affas: Well, we've been working on the project for a bit, so I've been trying to get mentally prepared. But I'm definitely excited, very honored, and very thrilled. I'm so excited to get this kind of recognition from the industry. All the judges were so amazing and helpful. For them to pick me as the regional winner is a really big deal.
TV: You presented a gorgeous jacket and dress. What was the inspiration and process behind creating your pieces?
ZA: I had a whole idea of what the project was about and how I needed to answer the brief. I always work with different textures and materials, as my collections are purely about design, construction, form, and shape. But as the brief is about merino wool, I wanted to show the different ways you could use, transform, and develop it. My look incorporates three different techniques with a wool-blend, laminated wool for the coat, and 100 percent merino wool and french terry for the sleeveless sweatshirt.
Hannah Sider2/6TV: It's such an amazing and detailed look. Fashion is such a different world now than it was say even five years ago. The industry is evolving rapidly and a lot of designers are solely using social media as their platform. This kind of a competition gives an edge to a very talented designer and allows them to actually inject funds into their business. What do competitions like the Woolmark Prize mean for talented designers who are trying to get into the fashion game?
ZA: For one, it gives you greater exposure which is crucial for a small brand like mine. The recognition in the industry is also very important. This prize feels like a more classic approach to fashion, as it's based on not only who you are as a designer, but your approach to design and how you shape materials.
TV: When it comes to your customer and how fast the industry has to move now in the digital space, how has that affected the way you think about your designs and the role that e-commerce plays in fashion at the moment?
ZA: I've always been conscious not to do too many collections. I'm only doing two a year right now, which is more of the classic approach. I'm personally focused on doing really cool work and the more you churn out takes a toll on the quality. There's only so much you can ask for a designer to do, as well as the people working with that designer. It's ironic that the industry wants beautiful and interesting things, but that they also want you to do so much. I'd rather do two really strong collections a year, but we do want to do e-commerce. The great thing about winning this prize is that it will help us to do that.
And for any young brand, you make more money doing e-commerce than you do with wholesale. That's better for us. And you also learn from your customer directly when it comes to what they like, what you should sell, and what you shouldn't. For our brand, we actually do really well with trunk shows because she wants to connect with us directly and talk with us. I build on a lot of my collections and pieces that way.
Hannah Sider3/6TV: Another big facet of your brand is celebrity dressing, with stars like Kylie Jenner wearing your designs. That matters a great deal now, with so much exposure coming from a single celebrity being spotted in a brand. Is that something you think about and that affects you?
ZA: We're very aware of it and brand recognition is a great thing. To dress Kylie, Gigi, Kendall, and Kim is great for us. I hope we can go on to dress all kinds of celebrities. I definitely look at it as an honor, as all these people have access to pretty much any designer they want. For them and the stylists to pick your work is a really nice thing. And we're such a small brand that we're not investing in a big PR push. So it's amazing to have people come to us. Being based in Los Angeles also helps, as we have a very easy relationship with a lot of stylists.
TV: Do you have any advice for young designers and those who are looking to get in fashion? The industry is more mainstream than ever, but it's still far from traditional.
ZA: If you have a passion for something, you should go for it. With fashion, it isn't glamorous and it isn't easy. And when it comes to design, don't just focus on sketching. That's such a small part of what you do. You do not sketch as a designer all day. You have to be prepared to do a lot of very different things. You'll have to roll up your sleeves. I mentor some students at a fashion school in L.A. actually. It's so good to learn everything about fashion. Oscar de la Renta famously said that he was picking up pins on the floor for years when he was working at Balenciaga. There's nothing wrong with doing the menial tasks because those give you great learning opportunities. You can't get to success overnight. I might look young, but I'm not! It has taken awhile for sure.
Hannah Sider4/6TV: How are you feeling after your big win right now?
Christopher Bevans: Feeling wonderful. I wouldn't be here if it wasn't for family, love, and really close friends.
TV: We loved what you created for the competition. What was the thought process behind the look?
CB: I grew up skateboarding with my brother and cousins. We got a friend who put us on to snowboarding and when we were growing up, we didn't have the cool kit and didn't know where to buy anything really. Being African-American, we didn't see people who looked like us on the mountain. So my look was an homage to my early days, my love for the outdoors, and being in Portland, Oregon where I spent a lot of time outside. I wanted to see what it would be like to create snowboard gear in wool. I wanted to juxtapose wool as this old school texture with new and modern techniques like taping, reflectivity, heat transfer, and near-field communication chips in the garment. The latter is basically the size of a nickel and it stores information that interacts with your phone. It allows you to upload whatever you'd like. The technology in my piece tells you when you're in proximity to a mountain and its conditions. I wanted to take this to another level.
Hannah Sider5/6TV: Technology is becoming such a big part of what we wear. What's your approach to it? It can be quite difficult to execute, right?
CB: It's such an interesting conversation that I can talk about for hours. Technology in fashion should enhance your life and not impede your everyday movement and lifestyle. We talk a lot about wearable tech and devices like Fitbits. Technology for me is just a tool that builds a bridge between the brand and the consumer. It educates customers about the brand, so we make sure to always do demonstrations for our sales associates and our retailers. We want to show them how the tech works and give them the best education on the garment they're selling. And what's cool is that even if you don't buy our piece, you take us home on your phone. You go back through your pictures and other things you interacted with later that night or at another point and you'll come across our brand. Then you can see what we're about on our site or on social media. Our tool is also translated in every language because we're global. Tech is slowly, but surely coming to the forefront of fashion.
TV: Absolutely! And social media has become an integral part of that technology push as well. It has become crucial for brands and it allows designers like yourself to set the tone. What does it mean for you personally, as well as for your brand?
CB: I'm a private person, so I don't show as much on social media. But my team is on it completely. And I trust them. Social is an extension of advertising for us and we use it as a tool. It doesn't totally define us, make us, or break us. It is a category in the company that we do put a lot of energy behind though. We're getting better at it and it's necessary for us, so we can tell our story.
Hannah Sider6/6TV: And when you were talking about the inspiration behind your winning look and being a man of color whose passion as a teenager didn't include figures who looked like you, we couldn't help but think about the importance of diversity—in fashion, sports, and media as a whole. Seeing yourself reflected in what you love is so crucial and helps you to feel like you're part of a community. More and more, we're buying brands who we want to represent us and our reality, with very slow, but steady progress in the industry. What does diversity mean to you?
CB: Our generation doesn't pay as much attention to color as the older heads do, but we absolutely want to use our voice. We want to stand for something. And for me, I'm proud. Love me or don't: I'm not going anywhere. I'm a positive person and I live that way. If you're coming sideways, I won't even interact with you. Everyone on my team is a minority, from the person running my company to the investors. We aren't anti-anybody, but we connected because we've had some of the same struggles in our lives. It has brought us together as a really tight unit and we all relate to one another. Through that, people gravitate to us and want to support us and be a part of our movement. We're definitely a group of freaks and geeks, as they'd say.
TV: Fashion is more mainstream than ever right now. Designers have become celebrities in their own right, thus young people are now really looking to the industry and aspiring to be a part of it. But it's still a very non-traditional world and it isn't a part of every college's curriculum.
CB: For sure, it's creative expression. So no one can tell you if it's right or wrong. If it feels true to you and you're sincerely passionate about making a business of it, who can tell you different or say no to you? Creativity means freedom and that's what is liberating for me.
TV: Do you have any advice for teenagers who have a vision and want to take the path of designing, but aren't sure and confident about moving in that direction?
CB: Intern for a company and it doesn't have to be a big one. I would actually advise that you intern for a smaller brand because you'll get to see different chambers of the business: design, sales, production, etc. You'll get to go across all the platforms. You should also study the craft. Take the time to really understand it. And when you're interviewed and you get the time to shine and show what you really know, that passion and knowledge will pour out.
