From the street style to the runways, London's fashion scene is where the most experimental trends and ideas show up first — the sea of Chopova Lowena skirts I spotted daily while attending the shows is a testament to that. So many socks, fluffy tiered skirts, and a lot of those Martine Rose Nike Shox sneakers. That London edge further extends to its flourishing community of designers, where innovation remains at the forefront, like DiPetsa’s gravity-defying wetlook dresses or Sinead O’Dwyer’s sculptural body-molded tops. But what else would you expect from the birthplace of punk?
The city itself is a fluid melting pot of identities and cultures, forming the undercurrent of London’s diverse creative scene. And there’s the talent to back it up: Enter Chet Lo, Masha Popova, and Natasha Zinko, three designers infusing London’s rebellious legacy into their work.
On a patch of grass in the middle of London’s Soho neighborhood, known for its glitzy department stores and third-wave coffee shops, Ukrainian designer Natasha Zinko presented her runway show, The Camp. After an intensely pink summer, courtesy of the cultural phenomenon that was Barben-Heimer, the Barbie-fication of fashion lives on, although not in the most obvious of ways. The show’s opening soundtrack included excerpts from a circa 1973 Barbie Going Camping advert, with lines like, “Camping out is fun!” That was undoubtedly my sentiment after the show.
The invite’s artwork included an image of a canteen cup, which made sense when models aggressively pounded down the grass runway donning shelter backpacks and duffle bags that resembled cut logs. And if the gorp-y theme wasn’t immediately obvious, the propped-up tents surrounding the grass runway certainly drove the idea all the way home.
There were cascading gowns constructed out of nylon windbreaker material and relaxed, slouchy cargo jeans that featured a metal water bottle artfully clipped to one of its straps. Models wore slicked-back, almost-wet hair, creating the illusion of roughing it in the elements. And there were plenty of socks and sandals too. There was no doubt that the show delivered high-fashion camp, but Zinko revealed a deeper meaning behind the fun aesthetics. “I was thinking about this idea of The Camp. The Camp can be fun. The Camp can be an expression. The Camp can come about without choice, and the political and climate turmoil is compounding all our lives more than ever today. As a Ukrainian affected directly by the ongoing war, I began asking myself these questions,” the designer told Teen Vogue.
Chet Lo's distinctive spiky knitwear has gained widespread recognition. They’ve sparked internet discourse about the controversial return of the Y2K trend, popcorn clothes. Moreover, everyone from Kali Uchis to Doja Cat has worn Chet Lo, with one of Lo's creations prominently showcased on the cover of Doja Cat's "Planet Her" album. But Lo’s designs are decidedly more elevated than the popcorn bubble tops of the past. The silhouettes are fun yet wearable and his command of color would make even the biggest cynic smile.
For his spring/summer collection, Lo went for a sleeker approach. Inspired by “Shunga, Asian-Eroticism, and dismantling white-centric ideas of beauty and masculinity,” as he explains, Lo traded in high octane hue for icy tones of gray, blue, and brick red. Chet Lo may be the house that popcorn knits built, but this season the designer expanded his range with a multitude of elegant silk dresses and experimental suiting. “I think the most challenging aspect [of preparing for the season] was trying to elevate the collection in a way that stayed true to who I was, but in a beautiful and elegant way. I hope people see what I am trying to accomplish and the continuity of my previous collections and the direction we're going in,” the designer said of the brand’s trajectory.
There is the prim and refined side of London Fashion Week, best showcased by the likes of Burberry, Erdem, and Tove, but there’s a grittiness too that represents the raw creativity that’s made the city a haven for emerging talent. For her second runway show, Central Saint Martins graduate Masha Popova turned to the world of monster trucks. This summer, the idea came to Popova after attending Monster Jam—an event where trucks outfitted with colossal wheels bulldoze over obstacles in a pit. As she told Teen Vogue, “This collection, titled Monster, is inspired by the electrifying world of monster truck shows, capturing their colorful, adrenaline-charged energy and ruggedness. The vibrant palette is influenced by iconic trucks. While each piece echoes the thrill of the rally, the 'beasts' also symbolize a spectrum of emotions from the past year, exploring our inner challenges and strengths.”
One way this raw energy peaked through was via denim. Popova’s brand is still young, but the designer is already deeply tapped into what her fans like, and it’s a lot of experimental denim. “Denim is our cornerstone material,” she said. Over half of the runway looks included Popova’s signature printed denim in a range of vibrant colors and finishes, including purple jeans with stencil-like patterns and magenta denim sets. Fleshing out all the denim looks was plenty of iridescent velvet. In the light, the coloration looked as if the models effortlessly emerged from a pool of mud. This season also marks the first time Popova has dug deep into menswear, with nifty matching sets that could easily fit in at a Monster Jam arena. When asked to describe her brand, Popova called it “raw, energetic, sexy,” and even with the machismo of monster truck culture in the background, she delivered those qualities on all fronts.
