Meet 6 London Fashion Brands Breaking Boundaries

The birthplace of some of the most innovative trends.

November 9, 2023

Meet 6 London Fashion Brands Breaking Boundaries

It's easy to feel a bit disinterested and bored with the industry, so where does one look for fashion inspiration? The answer is the London fashion scene. Lately, the future of fashion has felt a bit hopeless: Brands continue to push the same trends, the appointment of creative directors at major houses has drawn a lot of criticism, and the lack of body inclusivity on the runway continues to dwindle season after season. The city of London has been the birthplace of some of the most innovative, inspiring, uninhibited fashion designers — Vivienne Westwood, Lee McQueen, JW Anderson, and Simone Rocha, to name a few. New talents are emerging that bring inspiring stories and a fresh perspective to the industry. This season, the London fashion scene is ushering in new voices that are redefining the trends, celebrating communities, and bringing British culture to a global platform through fashion. Here, are some of the brands that are redefining — or defining — what modern fashion means, and ushering us into a new era.

Ancuta

Romanian designer Ancuta Sarca has quickly become a celeb and fashion favorite since debuting her namesake line in 2019. You may have seen her cheeky, feminine take on Nikes worn by Bella Hadid and Rihanna. Sarca is known for her elevated, upcycled, DIY approach, including her shoe designs that typically bring a sporty take to classic styles through repurposing deadstock materials. This season, she showed a softer side using an ethereal color palette, suede clogs, floral adornments, and airy tops and skirts.

Feben

Feben Vemmenby, a graduate of Central Saint Martins (the art school that produced alums like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Simone Rocha, and Grace Wales Bonner), is quickly gaining notoriety. The designer is part of the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN collective, an initiative supporting emerging talent and providing a platform and resources to build a lasting brand. Feben’s designs celebrate femininity, and art while exploring Black identity through the use of colorful prints and modern silhouettes.

SRVC

As we all wonder what fashion will look like in the future, Ricky Wesley Harriot of SRVC (pronounced Service) is already exploring it. The designer’s work deconstructs the typical feminine silhouette and creates a new way of dressing. At first glance, the stretch-knit tops and high-slit dresses might appear a bit complicated and dystopian, but look closer and you’ll see that his collections are sustainable and wearable with some surprising elements of personalization like long straps you can tie around the body, removable inserts, and some cool heat tech. SRVC offers the promise of what modern, feminine expression might look like.

Sinead O’Dwyer

While luxury fashion continues to struggle to embrace body inclusivity, Sinead O’Dwyer’s stretchy designs celebrate bodies of all sizes and challenge the industry’s standard of beauty. Since launching her namesake label in 2018, the Irish-born designer has proven to be a pioneer in exploring new styles with impeccable textiles, technology, and tailoring to create high-quality and fashionable designs that reinvent modern luxury. Through her unique use of materials like silicone, cotton, denim, and Swarovski crystals, O’Dwyer explores the space between contemporary and luxury while making designs that are accessible to all body types.

Aaron Esh

Another Central Saint Martins alum, Aaron Esh, captures the attitude of London’s underground culture through a well-designed, tailored lens. Esh was one of this year's LVMH Prize finalists and debuted his runway collection this season. While his label began as menswear, it has evolved into a space for nongendered identity and dressing. From fluid silhouettes made of silky, oversized fabrics to androgynous, asymmetrical shapes created through structured materials and sharp cuts, Esh makes clothing for those who want to dress immaculately and look cool while doing so.

Yuhan Wang

Yuhan Wang has already built a celeb fan base that includes Kylie Jenner, Billie Eilish, and Jennie from Blackpink. Wang did her stints at Marni and JW Anderson before launching her label with the Fashion East incubator in 2018. She draws inspiration from her Chinese heritage and explores traditional dressing, combining it with playful prints and delicate designs. The result is a whimsical display of romantic shapes and lines.