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Copenhagen Fashion Week may be in the rearview but the amazing work from the designers is still top of mind. Each season, the show lineup is full of unadulterated fun, individuality and surprise while also showcasing art, political undertones, and of course good fashion that the city is known for.
The fashion industry can feel over-saturated and repetitive at times, but the brands coming out of Copenhagen, especially the newcomers, presented refreshing and unique designs, that I, for one, am always looking for in fashion.
Ahead, here are the seven brands that stood out from CPHFW 2024.
Nicklas Skovgaard
Nicklas’s namesake womenswear brand got its start in 2020 and has been steadily gaining popularity.. He notes that his pieces represent “the marriage of unexpected material and classical form.” Many of these materials are handcrafted by the designer himself, as he enjoys experimenting with looms and hand weaving. While the garments are made from unconventional combinations like silk taffeta and jersey, the shapes still lean into classic womenswear. Skovgaard has said that he looks to baroque elements for inspiration mixed with modern nods.
This season’s presentation, which included an array of elegant coats, dresses, skirts, and splashes of his specific style of evening wear, was no different. A personal favorite was this midnight blue woven coat adorned with a beautiful satin lining, cinched at the waist. His pieces display a beautiful combination of opulence and luxury without being stuffy and instead pure joy. He continues to make fashion fun.
Mfpen
This elusive brand was probably my favorite show of the week. Guests lined up in an art gallery turned runway, with a loud mix of of punk music and soundbites from the documentary “The Decline of the Western Civilization” playing as models walked out in a layered mix of tailored suiting, knits, and t-shirts.
Mfpene designer Sigurd Bank has been on the Copenhagen fashion scene for some time. He started his brand in 2015 with elevated basics and has since developed it into one of the most talked about brands of the season. The sort of dressed-down suiting and thrown together styling nailed that cool kid uniform that not many can successfully execute this flawlessly. No notes.
Stamm
Another cool kid brand is Stamm. This season, they asked the audience to consider the intersection between art and commerce, a place we all find ourselves in as consumers of fashion. Designer Elisabet Stamm wanted to create functional pieces that also directly reflected sculptures that inspired her, as well as incorporating sentimental elements that go into each detail. For example, she pulled inspiration from wearing her dad’s oversized jackets when creating her own--and oversized is an understatement. In their show notes, Stamm writes that core collection values for the brand are feeling liberated while also comfortable.
Skall Studio
This contemporary brand is no stranger to Copenhagen Fashion Week. Lately, it has become a staple for enthusiasts of essential wardrobe pieces, such as their overcoats and denim, particularly during the era of 'quiet luxury.'
Skall Studio has always been recognized for its ethically made, functional, and classic pieces, yet they are far from simple or mundane. Skall’s AW24 season showcased impeccable outerwear, well-tailored denim, and the most gorgeous sculptural jewelry pieces from the brand Kinraden. Every ensemble was enviable, offering aspirational autumn attire.
Paolina Russo
Last season, Paolina Russo stood out from the crowd. When I spoke to the designers last year, they emphasized their focus on sustainable production and materials, especially with knitwear—an area they both have experience in. This season featured more of their colorful knit varieties, such as a criss-cross shrug with matching leg-warmers, as well as some of their printed denim that I loved so much in the spring. Never one to shy away from prints and color, their pieces exude youth and individuality.
Alectra Rothschild of Masculina
Another new and notable brand that was featured at CPHFW’s New Talent program is Alectra Rothschild for Masculina. Rothschild is one of the first openly trans women to showcase at CPHFW. Her runway debut also featured mostly trans women. With a background in tailoring, Rothschild sought to create a brand with 'notions of high glamour, performativity, and craftsmanship.' This collection was representative of transformation and the process a trans person goes through once they put themselves out into the world. A personal favorite was her take on the classic raincoat, which is far from boring.
Vain
Vain is another young and fresh brand on the scene, having been established for only three years. This season, the brand explored the relationship between work and life, and the constant back-and-forth struggle of finding balance between the two. They referred to the 'rat race' of it all and hinted at this idea throughout their show, such as using mousetraps as accessories. They displayed an interesting mix of more formal suiting pieces broken down and paired with casual items like tanks and t-shirts.
