Korean skin care first went viral in the west a few years ago because of the infamous multiple-step routines. It has since become a staple due to its innovative formulations and accessible price points, slowly but surely filling more and more vanity cabinets around the world. And a great way to stock up on your favorites is to do so during Amazon Prime Day.
Whether you want to craft a full routine with Korean skin care products or simply add a couple of products here and there, there are certain Korean skin care essentials you should definitely consider adding to your routine. To learn more about what makes Korean skin care so special, Teen Vogue enlisted the help of Michelle Park, a board-certified dermatologist working at Washington Square Dermatology, and Dr. Michele Green, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in New York City who specializes in Korean skin laser treatments.
Why do Korean products stand out in a sea of products? According to Dr. Park, it all goes back to accessibility, which is now easier than ever, and the ingredient list. Korean skin care delivers results relying on gentler ingredients like rice water, snail mucin, mugwort, and centella asiatica, Dr. Park notes.
On that note, Dr. Green adds that “Korean skin care contains excellent active ingredients that are not common in the American skincare products we are used to,” like snail mucin, which, she says, “contains hyaluronic acid and peptides to promote hydration, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of dark spots.”
As with any skin care, the key is tailoring your picks to your needs and never overdoing them, especially for young people. That said, from cleansers to SPF, Korean skin care has it all, and if you are looking to upgrade your morning and nighttime routines, it should be the first place you look at. Below, we have compiled everything you need to know about basic Korean skin care essentials, including product recommendations by dermatologists and even more options tested and reviewed by editors. Keep reading for it all, or use the quick guide below to jump to your preferred section.
Korean cleansers
As Dr. Green notes, “cleansers work to clear the skin of any dirt, dead skin cells, excess oil, or other impurities that can clog pores and lead to acne breakouts and worsening of skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea.”
While most people tend to overlook the choice of cleansers as they are all going to be washed off anyway, Green emphasized that we should still look for products well-suited to each one's specific skin type and concerns. However, there are some shared markers that make for a great cleanser. As Dr. Green notes: “Cleansers should not contain fragrance, sulfates, or parabens, as these ingredients can dry the skin and lead to irritation.”
If your skin is on the dryer side, you should look for cleaners that contain hydrating ingredients, Dr. Green says. If, on the contrary, you are oily, Dr. Green says what you should look for is cleansers with exfoliating ingredients.
Korean toners & essences
If you have dabbled into Korean skin care before, you've probably wondered what's the difference between toners and essences, which K-Beauty have popularized and taken to another level. “Toners and essences may appear similar, but they differ in their purpose,” Dr. Park asserts. “Toners and essences are both hydrating, but toners are supposed to balance the skin pH level and remove any dirt and impurities after cleansing, while essences hydrate, brighten, and nourish the skin, preparing it for the rest of the skin care routine.”
While you can choose to go with both an essence and a toner at the same time, you can also opt for either off or alternate between one and the other for day and night or even different daily routines. “What product you choose to use will depend on what you are trying to address,” Dr. Park adds. “If you have acne-prone or oily skin, you can look for products that contain acids like AHAs and BHAs to exfoliate and unclog pores or tea tree oil. For aging concerns, look for products with peptides, vitamins, and antioxidants.”
When in doubt, less is more. Before choosing to go for an AHA or BHA, make sure you consult with your dermatologist first and check ingredient combinations first to make sure they work with anything you might be already using, especially if you are using other actives, Vitamin C, or any type of retinol or Vitamin A derivative.
Korean serums & ampoules
Much like toners and essences, serums and ampoules, the latter being a key product in Korean skin care, also often gets mixed up, and the distinction is even fainter this time around. “Serums and ampoules are targeted treatments and applied after essences,” Dr. Park explains. “This is where ‘active’ ingredients come into play to target issues like hyperpigmentation, acne, and wrinkles. Ampoules are concentrated serums meant to be a turbo-charged treatment for your skin concern. Again, choosing the right product will be based upon your skin concern.”
Korean moisturizers
While the Western market has great moisturizers, Korean skin care takes them to the next level with light formulas and concentrated doses.
“A good moisturizer will contain ingredients that are scientifically proven to promote hydration and moisture retention,” Dr. Green says. “Ceramides are lipids or fats that create a barrier to protect the skin from moisture loss and environmental damage. Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1000x its weight in water to pull moisture to the skin. A good moisturizer will also contain active ingredients to address specific skin conditions. Moisturizers with colloidal oats are excellent for those with sensitive skin, as colloidal oat works to lock in moisture and reduce inflammation.”
Korean eye creams
Eye creams are often the forgotten frontier when it comes to skin care, but Korean eye creams might change that for you. “Eye creams are lightweight products that work to tighten the skin under the eye and prevent fine lines and hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Green explains. “Some of the best Korean eye creams include retinol, or vitamin C. Retinol is derived from vitamin A and works to improve fine lines and wrinkles and encourage collagen production. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from harmful UV radiation. Some Korean eye creams also contain ginseng, an anti-inflammatory ingredient to reduce puffiness under the eyes.”
Korean toner pads & sheet masks
When Korean skin care was just breaking through in the West, the star product that immediately took hold was single-use sheet masks. While sheet masks are still well-loved in Korea and abroad, toner pads have also entered the scene as a much more compact and sustainable alternative, with each packet holding multiple pads.
People use toner pads in the same way you'd sheet masks, applying them on the skin and leaving them to work for 10 to 15 minutes for an added hydration boost or to treat troubled areas. However, they can also be used as a one-swipe solution for on-the-go toner applications.
Again, picking the right toner pad or sheet “depends on what you are trying to treat and what your skin goals are,” Dr. Park says. However, not all toner pads and sheet masks are made equally. “Toner pads and sheet masks should be hydrating. Look for cica or Centella Asiatica for redness or soothing skin, tea tree oil or acids for oily or acne-prone skin, vitamin C for antiaging and hyperpigmentation, niacinamide for brightening and soothing, collagen for antiaging and improving skin elasticity,” Dr. Park adds.
Korean sunscreens & SPF
Not only do South Koreans take sun protection very seriously culturally, but Korean SPFs are also extra special because of their formulations. In Korea, SPF comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, and consistencies, from toner-like liquids to moisturizing creams and solid sticks for easy on-the-go reapplication.
“American or Western sunscreens contain an SPF rating that measures the product’s efficacy against UVB rays. Korean sunscreens are different in that they have both SPF and PA ratings,” Dr. Green explains. “PA ratings measure the product’s efficacy against UVA rays, another type of UV radiation that can damage the skin and result in premature aging signs such as fine lines and wrinkles.”
“Korean sunscreens feel very elegant and lightweight, won’t leave a white cast, and can even go the extra mile to incorporate ingredients that deliver benefits to the skin, such as hyaluronic acid, rice extract, or niacinamide,” Dr. Park adds. “There is a greater variety of UV filters available in Korean formulations, which is why Korean sunscreens may feel more elegant than those found in the U.S. They also utilize a PA rating system, which measures UVA protection – you won’t find this in the U.S.”
Korean pimple patches
Pimple patches have been on the rise in the past few years, partly thanks to the popularity of Korean skin care. While Dr. Park suggests looking into other methods for treating acne, she admits pimple patches can be a good aid for pesky active breakouts.
“When considering a treatment for acne, look for calming ingredients like Centella Asiatica, green tea, allantoin, and niacinamide. Gentle acids (AHA/BHA/PHAs) exfoliate the skin and unclog pores if you want a more active treatment for acne. Tea tree oil, because of its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, is very popular in formulations for acne-prone skin. Pimple patches are a great way to help spot-treat an active breakout by absorbing fluid and promoting healing while also discouraging picking or squeezing.”
If you have any sensitivities to adhesives, definitely check in with your dermatologist before using any pimple patches.
Korean lip products
Last but not least: lip care! An often neglected part of our skin care routine, our lips should be getting TLC both morning and night. In the morning, try looking for a moisturizer with SPF in it. At night, go for more soothing ointment — like the ever-so-viral Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask, which has become a K-Beauty staple — or lightly exfoliating scrubs here and there to get your lips soft and bouncy.
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