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The eighth installment of The Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showrooms, powered by Rakuten, returned to New York Fashion Week with a global touch. From the alluring landscapes of Cameroon to the lively streets of Mexico City and the chic avenues of France and NYC, nine designers converged at the High Line Nine, an esteemed art gallery venue. Over the course of five days, this dynamic showcase, founded by Lindsay Peoples, editor-in-chief of The Cut, and public relations luminary Sandrine Charles, presented their collections to an audience of buyers, influencers, and press. Teen Vogue spoke with four emerging designers about their brand identity and the inspiration behind their collections.
Amari Carter
Amari Carter, the visionary designer from Atlanta, Georgia, possesses a unique perspective in fashion design. With a keen eye for detail and a knack for blending the seen and unseen, she creates high-quality pieces that captivate and inspire conversation. With a passion for what she calls 'investments in art,' Carter's creations go beyond mere garments, becoming wearable works of art.
Her latest collections, 'Perfectly Imperfect' and 'Mini Series,' embody her ethos of boundary-pushing and celebrating individuality. "Perfectly Imperfect" delves into the poetry of fabric draped with intent, designed to be worn in multiple ways. Meanwhile, the "Mini Series" offers a curated selection of garments that defy convention with effortless style. Take, for example, her alluring reverse denim corset top featuring a star cut-out. With an upscale yet edgy aesthetic honed through her studies at the London College of Fashion, Carter continues to redefine contemporary fashion from her Bronx-based design studio.
For Amari Carter, her brand is more than clothing—it's a platform for storytelling, self-expression, and empowerment for the modern-day 'It Girl’.
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GVDS
Muktar Onifade, the ingenious mind behind GVDS (pronounced 'gods'), seamlessly blends his mechanical engineering roots with his West African heritage to redefine the landscape of contemporary fashion.
After purchasing a sewing machine with his first paycheck while working as a car engineer at GM in Detroit, Onifade embarked on a six-month self-teaching journey. This led to the creation of his first capsule collection of streetwear pieces. For him, GVDS isn't just a brand; it's an homage to African craftsmanship and evidence of the rich talent emanating from Lagos, Nigeria.His vision is to elevate the 'Made in Lagos' label to the same pedestal as its European counterparts.
GVDS embodies a harmonious fusion of minimal engineering lines, intricate hardware, and authentic West African patterns. Onifade's meticulous attention to detail, inspired by his engineering background, manifests in designs that resonate with a global audience.
From adorning Nigerian-American singer and songwriter Davido to crafting luxurious calfskin tote bags and intricately designed jewelry featuring Adinkra symbols, GVDS showcases African heritage, innovation, and unapologetic originality.
OMÔL
Nathalie Chebou Moth, the creative genius behind OMÔL, seamlessly combines heritage with innovation. She crafts a fashion narrative that celebrates the essence of womanhood. Rooted in her Cameroonian origins yet thriving in Paris, Moth's designs push traditional boundaries. They offer a vibrant display of culture, style, and functionality.
When asked about the essential inspiration behind the brand, Moth explains that it's rooted in the prototype of the African woman, who often serves as the blueprint or inspiration for many aspects of today's culture.
At the core of Omôl's ethos lies the brand's signature handwoven raffia bags. They double as musical instruments, evidence of Moth's ingenuity and commitment to redefining fashion's purpose. Inspired by Cameroon's cultural richness, these colorful creations serve as both practical accessories and artistic statements, celebrating tradition with a chic modern twist. OMÔL is a manifesto for fabulous, irreverent women seeking eclectic wardrobes without compromising affordability.
Nia Thomas
Nia Thomas, the epitome of a visionary, seamlessly incorporates her worldly experiences into her designs. Hailing from New York City, her journey from the Fashion Institute of Technology to Mexico City is a testament to her handcrafted, culturally immersive approach. The designer describes her brand as a symbol of opulent living, attracting those who embrace their power, sensuality, and capacity for love.
Her commitment to sustainability is evident in her meticulous sourcing of materials locally and collaboration with skilled artisans. This ensures each piece in her collection embodies unparalleled craftsmanship and authenticity.
Drawing inspiration from the '70s era, particularly the allure of Soul Train and Studio 54, Nia Thomas' latest collection radiates a timeless aesthetic. Intricately woven beaded pieces and handcrafted knits dominate her designs, reflecting a beautiful blend of nostalgia and contemporary elegance.
Nia Thomas envisions her brand as a global ambassador for knitwear, pushing past typical boundaries to showcase the limitless possibilities of artistic expression and technique.
