In the immortalized words of Bill Cunningham: “Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.” And with the emerging broquette style, it seems this phrase is being taken literally – especially if your idea of figurative armor is all-American football gear with a touch of irony.
Alexi Alario, a 23-year-old associate editor at Taschen and co-host of the culture and fashion podcast Nymphet Alumni, explains that ‘broquette’ is a portmanteau of ‘bro’ and ‘coquette.’ It melds sporty, boyish style elements with ultra-feminine pieces. She coined the term as an American counterpart to the viral blokette trend, which she also introduced on Nymphet Alumni last year. Blokette draws on the stereotype of the British bloke (think young-Damon-Albarn-meets-ballerina), but when it comes to broquette style, add die-hard fraternity brother vibes to the mix, and you get the picture.
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In Alario’s words, a bro’s slew of unwashed polo shirts and beer-stained boat shoes may seem to be “the most anti-fashion thing one could think of,” but therein lies the appeal of broquette. By androgenizing imagery very much associated with hedonistic Greek life and masculinity, the trend becomes a playground – or, rather, a sports arena – for self-expression, subversion, and ultimately, reclamation of itself.
“The dress code and culture of the bro is ripe for playing around with and even parodying,” said Biz Sherbert, who is one of the writers and co-hosts of Nymphet Alumni. “Broquette isn’t a straight-up homage to the bro. It’s inherently playful, adding feminine elements to a style that’s typically uniform in its masculinity, interpreting bro culture through the lens of those who historically haven’t participated in it.”
Take, for instance, the styling in NewJeans’ “Super Shy” music video. Style-directed by Choi Yumi, the bandmates all don coordinating uniforms of garments by designers Lucila Safdie and Conner Ives. The K-pop group wholeheartedly engages in all-girl flash mobs throughout the video, and their metallic lamé ensembles with collegiate iconography and striped knee-high socks are reminiscent of American Apparel’s glory days.
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Another broquette moment of recent musical history that Nymphet Alumni cites as a part of the trend’s development is Troye Sivan’s music video to “Rush.” Laden with keg stands, track pants, and sweaty lakeside hangouts, Sivan presents masculine motifs (bro-tifs?) in a queer, tongue-in-cheek context. He openly presents viewers with the physical, team-based nature of male athleticism and its undeniable homoerotic undertones.
“Collaboration and competition breeds community, something that is deeply sought after in our modern times,” said Sam Cummins, the third Nymphet Alumni co-host. “Broquette’s scope goes beyond its sporty stylistic elements. It’s activity-based [and may include] attending football games, fulfilling elaborate dares.”
This attention to communal activities and sportsmanship is similarly reflected in Nike’s collaboration with streetwear brand Ambush and their Nite Sport Academy campaign video. It stars musician-model Gabbriette Bechtel, known solely by her first name and her sharp gaze, as the new, mysterious girl to the high school football team. The collection itself falls somewhere between sportswear and schoolgirl, with ensembles of chunky sneakers, knee-high socks, and oversized, jet-black jerseys. Meanwhile, the campaign visuals replace typical cliquey tropes of back-to-school films with a focus on femme community and teamwork.
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“It's just such an easy-to-thrift trend. Grab sporty elements from your boyfriend or your brother's closet and combine your gym clothes with your dressier ones,” said style influencer Naomi, whose videos on blokette received widespread attention on TikTok in May. And if you don’t have a sports-lovin' sibling or partner in your life that you can rob, thrifting sporty gear is always an option.
The unkempt, thrown-togetherness and affordability of this “portman bro” style make it so cheeky and widely accessible. “There’s always a surplus of American sportswear at every secondhand store [and] garments like youth sports jerseys, charity 5K T-shirts, and oversized basketball shorts are the inevitable refuse of American public life,” said Alario.
Looking forward, Nymphet Alumni hopes to see broquette-enthusiasts continue embracing football jerseys and muscle tees, soffe shorts, and eyeblack as an alternative to the smokey eye, both on and off the field of fashion.
“So many elements of what we consider ‘masculine’ culture can be beautiful and fun. Cut some jerseys in half and adorn them with ribbon, play darts and flip cup even if you suck at them,” said Alario. “Make peace with the bro inside your head.”
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