Each of the four main fashion capitals brings something special to the table. New York is reputable for wearability, championed through brands like Coach, Tibi, and Tommy Hilfiger. Over in London, a more daring spirit takes hold, with designers like Simone Rocha, Harris Reed, and even traditional heritage brand Burberry under Daniel Lee’s direction opting for more avant-garde concepts. Milan is synonymous with tailoring and craftsmanship, epitomized by fashion houses like Prada, Fendi, and Brunello Cuccinelli, while Paris is the pinnacle, known as the capital where each element is at its peak — think Courrèges, Schiaparelli, and Louis Vuitton.
While these established brands form the foundation of each fashion capital's reputation, a new wave of emerging designers is building onto it — and we are paying close attention. This season, we have gallivanted from NYC to London and soon over to Milan and Paris to bring you the ultimate list of rising designers from each fashion capital. Keep reading for it all, or jump to your preferred fashion week with the arrows below.
New York Fashion Week
New York may be known as the most “commercial” of all the fashion capitals, but the emerging designers in the city are proving they can perfect practicality while showcasing creativity and technical mastery. Here’s what our favorite rising talent presented for the spring-summer 2025 season.
An alumna of the Savannah College of Art and Design and now a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, Kate Barton kicked off her debut NYFW show with dramatic flair by sending a model with a live goldfish in her signature fish bowl-inspired purse down the runway. After the splashy entrance, 30 striking looks followed, including several standouts like a sculptural pale pink dress with a liquid-like sheen, a black crossbody bag adorned with fish-shaped charms, and a tank top with a transparent dome across the chest. A highlight of the show was the many renditions of Barton's trademark translucent, fish bowl-shaped bag, one of which was playfully filled with Goldfish crackers, that left the room smiling back.
The collection was equal parts kitschy and technical, with fish motifs in the form of purses and brooches balanced out by beautifully constructed evening gowns like the voluminous white dress that model Winnie Harlow wore to close out the show. Despite this being her debut, Barton's designs have already been making ripples in the fashion world after being featured in shows like Emily in Paris and spotted on celebrities like Katy Perry.
Renowned for her feminine designs, Allina Liu upped the ante this season with a darker undertone. Her spring-summer 2025 collection, entitled “Good For Her,” was inspired by woman-led cults and the Pagan tradition of Midsommar. Old folk costumes are reimagined throughout the collection through modern hemlines, innovative fabrics like biomaterial TômTex, and risqué cutouts.
“Throughout history, the power of femininity has been both a source of profound strength and a cause for great fear,” Liu shared in the show notes. “Fear of feminine power has historically led to the silencing of women, through both overt suppression and subtle erasure from historical narratives,” making it all the more significant that Liu has decided to highlight this story.
From choosing a church as the presentation venue to instructing models to eerily smile at wandering guests, the storytelling in the presentation was the cherry on top of a uniquely constructed collection of white dresses and denim. No detail is missed, and the marriage of all elements resulted in an eerily gorgeous viewing experience.
The chaos that comes with creation was on full display at Tanner Fletcher's spring-summer 2025 presentation. Entitled “The Artist’s Dilemma” and held in an intimate art gallery, the presentation featured models dressed in vintage-inspired garments, performing various vignettes about the growing pains of being an artist. From a duo meticulously arranging bouquets in matching sequined floral garments to artist Jeanette Getrost's hand painting on a blank canvas dress worn by media personality Dylan Mulvaney, there were many nods to both beauty and pain — the juxtaposition that often comes with the creative process.
As cocktails flowed, conversations did, too, and the combination of everything happening at once felt overwhelming at times. “These pieces represent the dilemma of having too many choices,” the show notes explained, reflected in garments with unfinished ruffles, varied bows, and exposed tulle — adding a dynamic layer to the meticulously made suit sets, dresses, wide collar tops, and more.
Founded in 2022 by Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell and worn by celebrities like Troye Sivan and Bad Bunny, the brand has quickly gained recognition for their genderless brand approach to design, infusion of vintage and interior styling in their piece throughout, alongside their fluid approach to luxury, making them one of the most intriguing brands to keep an eye out for.
MELKE’s spring-summer 2025 collection, "The Book Fair," whimsically evoked the nostalgia of Scholastic Book Fairs, capturing the excitement of choosing new reads and quirky school supplies. Designer Emma Gage paid homage to her own school uniform with soft tailoring and relaxed silhouettes throughout the collection, while structured cotton, supple wools, and silks added sophistication to playful details.
A standout piece from the presentation is a yellow striped pencil skirt adorned with real yellow No. 2 pencils at the hem. This skirt was paired with a matching shirt set featuring yellow fringe-like detailing and No. 2 pencil earrings. The playful theme extended past the clothing, with a presentation featuring models asking passersby about their favorite vegetables, a bake sale, and a raffle, alongside many other nostalgic touches.
In a capital marked by a focus on practicality, MELKE’s avant-garde and maximalist approach serves as a delightful reminder of an elementary concept in fashion: having fun.
London Fashion Week
Spring-summer 2025 marked London Fashion Week's 40th anniversary, and the eccentric capital is not only celebrating its history but looking ahead as well. From folks a part of NEWGEN (a British Fashion Council initiative that aims to support and scale new talent this season in partnership with Pull&Bear) to rising talent showcasing solo, here are the emerging designers moving the needle forward.
Entitled “My Body is a Labyrinth,” Dimitra Petsa unveils an introspective collection inspired by the myth of Ariadne and Theseus for spring-summer 2025. Using the ancient tale as a jumping point, what resulted was an exploration of the labyrinth within the self, alongside themes of divine female power and faded summer memories.
Despite this being Petsa’s third year affiliated with the NEWGEN program, this collection brought many firsts, including the first gender-fluid menswear pieces, a tan line-inspired print, and the “Tama” bag, made out of deadstock fabric and vegan leather.
Beyond introducing new designs, the strongest takeaway from Petsa’s most recent showing was her consistent brand voice. Most notable for her ethereal "wet-looking" dresses worn by celebrities like Tyla and Gigi Hadid, Petsa seamlessly expanded her signature look this season, transferring the technique over to shirts, swimwear, and other everyday wear pieces.
Karoline Vitto is taking the fashion scene by storm. After two shows at Fashion East, a prominent platform in the United Kingdom known for launching new talent, and a couple of stops in Milan Fashion Week, the Brazilian designer stepped out for the first time solo this LFW.
Expanding on previous signature techniques and construction, all within the theme of “braving the storm,” the new collection, “Undertide," marks an evolution for the designer, with comfort for everyone remaining at the forefront. Carrying sizes between S–4XL, the most notable designs from her spring-summer 2025 collection included her signature draped dresses and bodysuits featuring slinky straps with a crisscross at the front and back to support folks with larger busts that may not have had access to this design prior. In addition to Vitto's designs, a highlight from the show was the size-diverse casting, with familiar faces like Yumi Nu, Teen Vogue’s May 2022 cover star, and Lauren Chan, a well-known curve model, gracing the runway.
Inspired by Tolu Coker’s upbringing, particularly her mother’s style, the designer’s spring-summer 2025 collection, titled “Olapeju,” was a tribute to British-Nigerian resilience. Coker’s collection reflects her experiences growing up with immigrant parents in Britain. The thoughtfully directed catwalk featured walls adorned with photography by Coker’s late father, captured during a time when immigrants were not warmly embraced in the U.K. A welcome mat at the entry, living room furniture scattered throughout, and warm lighting throughout the room filled the space with a homey feel, which was Coker’s aim as the collection was so heavily influenced by elements in her upbringing.
The show opened with a Yoruba saying about the importance of honor, followed by a live band as models structured and danced down the runway, resulting in a moving display where both lived adversities and joy are on display in equal parts. While the collection itself — characterized by sharp silhouettes and pops of colors in ‘60s and ’70s silhouettes — is visually stunning, Coker emphasized that it represents more than just clothing. “Clothes are never a commodity by themselves; they belong to an environment, an expression and celebration of culture, and a documentation of past influences in the present,” the designer and Teen Vogue Generation Next alum explained in her show notes.
Only a year out from her BFC NEWGEN debut, Coker has gone on to be featured in British Vogue’s January 2024 sustainability issue and worn by pop culture favorites like Ariana Grande and India Amartefio, making her presence in the fashion industry not just needed but fashionably favored.
Yuhan Wang is moving like a butterfly and stinging like a bee. Inspired by female fighters like Alaia Ali and Barbara Butterick, who made their mark in the boxing world, Wang presented a series of silhouettes inspired by competitive sports gear infused with coquette juxtaposition this LFW.
With oversized boxing gloves covered in lace, motorcycle-style jackets paired with frilly skirts, sporty panel inserts in pastels, and more, the designer's spring-summer 2025 collection was filled with many contrasting delights. Established in 2018, Wang got her start in the fashion world by presenting at Fashion East, then moving on to present independently since. Known for her playfully feminine designs mixed, the Central Saint Martins graduate's designs have been a celeb favorite, seen on Billie Eilish, NewJean’s Danielle, and Taiwanese singer Nana Ou-Yang.
For spring-summer 2025, Sinead Gorey delivered a refreshingly subversive take on British prom, a spin-off of the American tradition. Centering her collection around a narrative focused on the anti-heroine rather than the classic prom queen, the designer staged her show in a school gym, complete with a doorway decorated with heart balloons and streamers, confetti on the runway, and a typical gym scoreboard with the designers name in glowy neon light, making it a suiting setting for her rebellious design.
While the show was a nod to “simpler” times, the clothing was rich in details, references, and technicality. The designer’s mastery of corsetry and evening wear was evident in her use of fabrics and silhouettes, with stand-out moments being a studded O-ring bodycon reminiscent of the corset-piercing trend, a bratty color palette of candy floss pinks and crimson, and spiked belts with smartphones at the hip. Classic school elements were also reimagined, with sweetheart necklines and danity lace-up details sprinkled throughout. Gorey’s spring-summer 2025 collection was a nostalgic recollection of prom fashion, blending punk sensibilities with high fashion to create a contemporary take on teenage rebellion.
Milan Fashion Week
While Milan may be synonymous with top-tier craftsmanship, designers go beyond material choices in the Italian fashion capital, accompanying meticulous design with solid storytelling. From pushing back on perfection to imagining utopian universes, Here's what these emerging designers had to say this season.
Maccapani scattered scenes of sensual serenity throughout a lavish Italian home. In one room, a woman took a slice of a decadent raspberry-topped cake, dressed in a silky spaghetti-strap floral gown. In another, a model basked in the sun, lounging in a simple tank top adorned with a single daisy. Maccapani's spring-summer 2025 collection, titled "UTOPIAKNITS," envisioned a world where women can slow down and indulge. Inspired by Alpine fairytales, designer Margherita Maccapani Missoni — heir to the Missoni fashion house — reinterpreted rebellious female archetypes with her independent line. The collection blends modern sensibilities with historical influences, featuring pieces like "The Princess Corset," a reimagined version of the traditional garment with a relaxed finish, and "The Little Fuchsia Riding Hood," a knit sweater with a sweeping hood. Together, these pieces weaved storybook whimsy into a wearable, dreamlike collection.
Zona20's "Sound of Sun" collection marked the brand's debut on the Italian fashion calendar. Founded by sisters Zoe and Cherie Wang, the presentation invited guests through a sensory exploration of the earth's elements, playing off of the brand's use of natural fabrics like linen, cotton, silk, and wool. Throughout the presentation, contemporary dancers performed in the designs, showcasing the garments' wearability, as a musician played a handpan drum. A standout piece was a light blue oversized suit featuring an asymmetric cut with a removable string accent, offering a fresh and genderless take on a wardrobe staple. Similar to the blue suit, many garments featured modular aspects, allowing the pieces to be worn in many different ways, shifting to individual style preferences, and holding the promise that the garment can be worn for many years to come, no matter the wavering trend cycle.
Tokyo James's latest collection, "Imperfection," questioned the default definition in a capital most reputable for meticulous craftsmanship. Using raw and unpolished material, the designer adorned dresses and pants in wood beads. Aside from the fully beaded garments, inspired by his Nigerian roots, the organic material was peppered throughout the collection via accessories, a standout look being a beaded handkerchief accompanied by a sharp, neatly tailored, black suit. As mentioned in the show notes, the designer aimed to push back on Western luxury standards and what's considered "good" material. "The true worth lies in the craftsmanship, the expressive journey, and the functional purpose, rather than in rigid notions of originality."
A delicious sight was to be seen at Federico Cina's spring-summer 2025 runway. From fringe-filled skirts that swayed with each model's step to Tortelini-shaped handbags that swung in sizes big and small, the designer's most recent offerings were a fashion feast for the eyes. In addition to the movement of the clothing and the satisfying styling, the double belts and draped layering being a standout, Cina collaborated on this collection with athletic brand Umbro, adding a sporty flair throughout the collection. The brand, created in 2019, is inspired by the history and culture of Romagna, a region in northern Italy.
Paris Fashion Week
What does it mean to be an emerging in Paris? In contrast to other fashion capitals, where newcomers often debut their first collection or are very fresh into their ventures, Paris presents a unique landscape. Here, even designers with years of experience may slip under the radar amidst legacy, household-name designers competing with centuries of work. Additionally, while other capitals usually showcase designers in that region, Paris brings in a mixed bag, with designers traveling near and far to showcase their work in the city of lights.
Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson's spring-summer 2025 collection was a stunning testament to sustainability. From a dress made entirely of buttons, which created a glorious clacking sound as it moved down the runway, to a matching set crafted from embroidered tea towels, the 2024 LVMH Prize winner drew inspiration from her memories of growing up in the countryside. One standout piece was a maxi dress fashioned from an oil canvas she admired as a child, completed with a large frame at the hemline, actualizing what it would look like if a painting were to come to life. "Each piece carries the intimacy of familiar landscapes and the materials that once surrounded me," the designer reminisced in her show notes. Using practical everyday items, such as zippers and belts, she transforms overlooked materials into couture-level garments, redefining what it means to be truly sustainable in fashion with her sights set on becoming the first fully sustainable fashion house. Her recent designs have already been worn by notable figures such as Petra Collins and Saoirse Ronan.
In a tribute to video game culture, Alphonse Maîtrepierre showcased an electric collection filled with wires, screens, and other unconventional technology-oriented motifs. The Paris-based designer, an ex-styling assistant at Jean-Paul Gaultier's couture studio, was inspired by surrealism and "geek" culture, resulting in a collection filled with retro keyboard-shaped bags, joystick-shaped cuffs, and lush oversized bathrobes. Beyond the on-the-nose garments, Maîtrepierre played with surrealism further, proposing "constructions that defy the usual norms and codes of clothing," featuring off-axis lines or collars that meld into the sleeves. This collection marked the fifth anniversary of the brand's conception.
Stepping away from the chaos of Paris Fashion Week — if only for a moment — was New York-based Chinese designer Rui Zhou. Models drifted through a surreal atmosphere filled with wax candles and sculptural lounge chairs, encouraging viewers to slow down. The clothes embodied this leisurely-like state, constructed from a malleable fabric in a mixture of sheer and semi-translucent silks and meshes. We were not quite sure of what was skin and what was clothing. The sheerness of the garments added to the transient aura, faithful to the designer's intent of blurring the lines while seamlessly blending contrasting elements. Zhou's designs have been seen on stars like SZA, Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion, and more.
Fashion month rarely allows time for a full sit-down meal, but Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt pushed back on that notion by presenting her spring-summer 2025 collection at French restaurant Terminus Nord. The iconic Art Deco brasserie, located across from the bustling Gare du Nord station, was a fitting venue, paying homage to international industry and the travel that takes place during the month. Guests sat at tables as models floated by in elevated T-shirts, both inside and along the restaurant's facade, with the designer embracing the beauty found in the mundane. Puffed-sleeve and stiffly structured t-shirts added a sophisticated touch to a typically simple silhouette, with the anatomy of a shirt serving as an amuse-bouche for more intricate outfits. The designer sent out flowy ruffle dresses in a soft tangerine shade, a bubblegum pink full-length coat, chocolate brown silk skirts, and other delicious sights — bringing a whole new meaning to what it means to serve a look.
