The Zoot Suit Style's Scandalous History, Explained

Dress as an act of resistance, we're here for it.
Maluma and Willy Chavarria wear Mexican Zoot suit to Met Gala 2025
Colombian singer Maluma (R) and US designer Willy Chavarria arrive for the 2025 Met Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 5, 2025, in New York. The Gala raises money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. The 2025 Met Gala is themed "Tailored for You," aligning with the Costume Institute's exhibition, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," set to open to the public on May 10. (Photo by Angela WEISS / AFP) (Photo by ANGELA WEISS/AFP via Getty Images)ANGELA WEISS/Getty Images

The Mexican Zoot suit, or Pachuco, was brought into the 21st century last night. The Met Gala 2025's theme of Superfine: Tailoring Black History evoked a range of inspiration from attendees. And while some chose to go the 1920s flapper route, wearing feathered dresses, others wore the Zoot suit or dramatic capes inspired by famous Vogue editor Andre Leon Talley. But for Maluma, designer Willy Chavarria, and Bad Bunny, they referenced Latinx history to put together their looks.

Maluma and Chavarria came to the event together wearing custom suits from Chavarria with shoes from Portuguese designer Carlos Santos. Chavarria, whose father is Mexican-American, referenced the Pachuco style of the 1930s for the vibrant suits. Pachucos and Pachucas were a subset of Mexican Americans who, in an attempt to defy xenophobic attacks on their community, wore their own versions of Zoot suits.

“The Pachuco, as we know, is the quintessential dandy from the 30s and 40s representing Latinos and Black (people) who dressed as a form of resistance to the beauty,” Chavarría told WWD, "I hope to encapsulate that.”

As Mariana Viera notes for Teen Vogue, “the suit was an open rejection of the moral codes propagated by sanctimonious white middle-class Americans, who saw it as a sign of juvenile delinquency and proof that unsupervised Mexican-American kids, many of whose parents were likely either serving in the war or had new factory jobs, were spiraling out of control.” These young people wore bold suits made from luxury materials as an outward defiance of stereotypes put on them.

NEW YORK NEW YORK  MAY 05  Willy Chavarria and Maluma attend the 2025 Met Gala Celebrating Superfine Tailoring Black...
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For the Met Gala 2025, Chavarria's suit had a CHICLE candy color, staple Heretic blazer, a signature of the brand, with a double-breasted strong shoulder and cinched waist, lengthened to evoke the Pachuco suit and paired with classic column trousers. Maluma, who was styled by Stephanie Escobar and groomed by Cynthia Alvarez, wore a beautiful brocade suit made from Italian cloqué that had a Heretic blazer as well. He also donned a Jacob & Co. Emerald Billionaire III timepiece. Both gentlemen wore gold double-pocket watches and bolero hats made in Mexico City.

Chavarria and Maluma, who have made waves in their fields of music and fashion, in wearing these Pachuco suits, are paying homage to the men before them who resisted assimilation. Pachucos evolved from Zoot suits who evolved from Dandys so their outfits were perfect for the “Tailored for You” theme of the evening.

Bad Bunny also referenced Latinx history in his look. The proud Puerto Rican singer wore a custom Prada suit made from mohair with a tobacco poplin shirt finished with a raffia tie, natural rope and leather belt, and natural colored canvas boots. He accessorized with embellished leather gloves, Fall-Winter 2025 runway bag, and a traditional Pava hat made from Puerto Rican palm leaves, as reported by USA Today. The classic look was perfect ahead of his No Me Quiero Ir De Aquí residency in PR.

We love that all three men — Maluma, Chavarria, and Bad Bunny — embraced and amplified their Latinx history in such stylish ways.